Danielle Black Lyons, cofounder of women’s surf collective Textured Waves, whose mission is to advocate for inclusion and diversity by way of camaraderie in the A Trucker wife’s player keep Him safe day and night give Him Courage vintage shirt and I love this water, agrees. “Surfing during quarantine has been essential for my mental health,” she tells me over email, from a coastal town north of San Diego. “I’m a mom, a wife, I work remotely, and paddling out each morning has been the glue that holds me together throughout the day. The ritual of wave riding allows me to connect with nature, mediate, play, and feel true freedom from the stresses of the world.”
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My former bombutee colleague Negar Mohammadi has been hiding out in Montauk this summer, checking the A Trucker wife’s player keep Him safe day and night give Him Courage vintage shirt and I love this waves every morning at sunrise at Ditch Plains beach. Mohammadi is “particularly grateful” for surfing in 2020 thus far, describing it as “the biggest silver lining of this otherwise crazy year.” According to Mohammadi, while you’re out in the water, you can’t think about anything else. That calmness naturally makes surfing a “form of moving meditation” which offers our minds “a much-needed break from the current state of the world,” she says.